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All the main caps? If so, you will be doing front and rear main seals too! Is the knock high or low in the engine? Is it a single or double knock? If an air compressor rod goes away, the compressor will stop making air, the rods are aluminum and will not tolerate any damage. What kind of matal...

E85 as in ethanol? Don't know if i'd do that. Ehtanol attacks certain types of rubber. There could be an issue with the seals and o-rings in the feul system...mainly in the pump. that could lead to an external leak or a very bad case of the "Harlyes" by putting fuel in the oil. I've run alot of...

Gimmie a week, I can post a pic of a ring mount installed on my junk 8-)

If you take the joints apart and make sure they are clean and smooth, you don't need the gaskets. If you want them, Memphis has them.

Rustoleum paint, high temp and regular, VHT...it all works good on the whole deal except for the bend at the outlet on top. Whatever I put there will burn off after an hour of sustained freeway speeds if the truck is loaded. I just keep a can under the seat!

Weekend of the 24th of April. Mark, I still haven't changed that battery!

Do the Saturn upgrades. They work WAY better! sat-51-062c

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Do you have the heads on a bench? If so, loosen the jamb nut a few threads and back the adj screw off, put the x head on the guide, oil the tops of the valves and guides, just a drop or two..sorry, forgot that tidbit! Apply a good amount of pressure with your thumb in the center of the x head...

Welcome, there are a few fellow SS members down your way.

When we do engines in the field, we just stand them on the flywheel housing. The engine can be taken down to bare block that way. Just make sure you put a piece of cardboard between the ground and the flywheel housing so the mating surface doesn't get all chewed up.

The axle, drums, hubs and brakes are different from the A1 to A2. A1 axle and brake parts are a bit more scarce.

WOW, you did some searching! My hat is off to you brother. You will be replacing a gasket that will change the ht of the cylinder by a few thousandths, remove the rockers and re set the overhead, you'll be surprised how well they run with a good tune up. If you feel strong, go ahead and...

Try this one first, TM 9-2320-209-20-2-1

One of the TM's has a diagram of the fuel system...forget which one it is though, WAY too many pages in all of them! The TM's are here for free, you can download them and browse them at your leasure. Top of the pages under resources, Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite I'll go do...

Agreed 2X If the tie rod is removed though, use the press and V block method, just remember to thread something into the ball joint hole if the rod is being supported in the V blocks there. The hole will get egg shaped.

Check the hinges, they have a tendency to bend causing the door to be out of alignment.

You can use spray on foot powder to find the leak. Spray it around the area you suspect the leak is coming from, let it dry and give the engine a crank. There will be a wet spot at the leak. DON'T use body parts to find fuel leaks! High pressure liquids are sharper than farts, they will go right...

PM me, I have a great place to do it. They will give you a temp so you can drive it to them for the VIN verification. They have done my stuff as well as 5 or 6 others. They are in Arcadia.

Did you get some help?