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If it is an 855, two places. Cheapest and easiest, injector o-rings, more expensive, front pump seals. If it is "C" model, one of two places, again, cheapest and easiest, the lift pump, the more expensive route, the Bosch pump.

Chris, that engine SHOULD have a corrosion inhibitor on it. C's are horizontally mounted, sticking out to the exhaust side, just to the rear of the stat housing.

It is a teflon seal. Get a new seal. The coolant will bypass the stat and lead to an overheat on a long pull and run cold around town. The new sael will be very tight. After the seal is installed in the housing, it will take a bit of force to install the stat. Try pushing the seal on the stat...

I just wanna see/hear a vid of it running! Chris, I admire you for your dedication! That's ALOT of work.

That don't look too messed up, i'd run it again with the correct shear pin and re seal it. How's the weather up there, I'm still wearin' shorts...barely :wink: May, June, July? You could get here just in time for a 4th o July brew ha ha :razz:

There are metal stakes available too....I have a dented pocket on one of the sides and a glass or wood one won't fit. I like them 'cause they won't rot. A bit of sanding and paint now and again and they are good to go. There are also metal bows available.

Mine does move a bit when in forward gears, but nowhere near an inch. I do have a squashed mount rubber..I hate it when my rubber is squashed;-)

Before you go turning things up, do the usual low power checks. Make sure it's getting full throttle, maybe give it a filter change, check to see if the in tank pump is pumping fuel...

Check the motor mount rubbers.

Craig whipped out air brake line alcohol. Iguess it would be the same. I'll ask. Stand by...Called Craig, rubbing will work, but not as effective as it isn't a high % concentrate. The air line stuff is 90%. Gotta tell ya, it worked very good. A tad cold on the fingers though :wink:

Well, it's been a bit, but we started wrenching on the M8. Pulled the wheels and drums off, all the wheel cylinders are leaking. Disassembled one axles worth, 4 cylinders, all have water contamination. We looked at the records kept on the unit, as far back as the early 90's there has been brake...

Well, if it is mounted higher than the engine, that could do it.

Nah, there's just a plunger inside..all the pump internals are fuel bathed. When the governor plunger sticks, it's just like putting a stinger in the pump, it will operate normally but will go WAY past the governed speed, fuel pressure gues accordingly with engine RPM, or will have lower than...

I had mine stick after it got wet. There are two springs, the one at the top and the mustache spring, Could be time to replace them.

I'm curious as to why it ran away. If it were turboed, I could understand it, but it's not. It needs to have an uncontrolled fuel source capable of feeding enough fuel into the intake, to MAKE the RPM increase and sustain it. That engine has none. Even if the engine were totally full of...

Make sure it's getting full throttle and the shut off cable is all the way in.

WOW, how'd that happen!? No turbo, was the blowby tube clogged? I've seen alot of stuff happen, but for a N/A engine to run away...gotta say, that's a first. Good job on saving it!

Mine does the same thing on a very intermittant interval. I have noticed that when it does happen, the volt meter doesn't move like if the starter was drawing too much. I put a button in the truck only because the red looked red instead of pink, and that didn't help. The click seems to come from...

Why? Ever done it?

The big plug in the rear of the block is for aftercooler plumbing.