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To rule out suspension geometry questions, mount a camera, like one of those Go-Pro things, under the truck and see what happens under braking.
Oh, and please be sure to post any such videos here! 8-)
Mine did that when the front battery went bad. It would take a charge, but would fail under a load test. I'd suggest giving them a full charge, then have them load tested. For a quick work around, I swapped the batteries around and that gave me enough to get it started. I would not advise...
:ditto: What he said...
When my front battery was going bad, I would get the dash lights flashing and relay going crazy noise when I tried to crank the engine. The front battery would charge, but failed the load test. The rear battery tested good, so I was able to swap them and get it to start...
If the tire looks bad, I would not want to run it any longer than I had to. When you have it in for the rotation and balance, see what they have to say about it. Is there a tire recall database anywhere?
Sorry, don't know about the u joints and shafts, but am looking forward to reading what...
You may have a bad battery. I'd suggest giving them a full charge, and then having them load tested at your local auto parts house. Unless you have your own load tester, that is! :grin:
1) yes, both alts are 12v, but they are isolated ground, as gen 2 gets its ground reference from gen 1.
2) Gen 1 ( left side ) charges the front battery. Gen 2 puts out 24v across both batteries. Download the TMs, there are some good troubleshooting guides in them.
?) Glow plugs are 12v. The...
Soak the bolts in PB Blaster a few days ahead of the planned swap.
I put mine up on jack stands and pulled the wheels for easier access.
Have a good selection of socket extensions on hand for the right rear. Left rear is a bit of a pain, but not too bad. Air tools would help.
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