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That wheel is most likely what is being supplied. If you plan on using the trailer commercially, that is the way to go.

Yes we can. Welcome. See: https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/rushycoms.html

Rapco may match color but it is WAY OFF on flatness. You want CARC substitute from ArmyTankGuy on ebay.

Looks really good. I would guess the side turn signal was tastefully added by a civilian owner in order to comply with European lighting standards. Some import cars here are starting to have that even though it is not required here.

Try Feltz Tire, they are closer to you. Needs to go 4 on pallet motor freight not UPS etc. Pick up at terminal to save on freight.

That your transfer is in neutral like you suspect.

The one between the Hydramatic and the transfer case.

I have a trailer that has a restriction in the emergency line (bug nest?). It takes about 10 minutes for the prime mover to fill the trailer tank sufficiently to release the spring brakes.

Is the Hydramatic shifting into all 4 gears when you accelerate? You can also verify the transfer is in neutral by spinning the jackshaft by hand, if you can spin it at all, yes the transfer is in neutral.

Welcome to the site. To answer your question, yes, tubeless rims for the 6 hole Budd pattern exist for this trailer, DOD has been installing them on fresh 172A1 rebuilds at Red River Arsenal. I have no idea where to source them however. Meanwhile, the 10.00-15 LPT tires are quite plentiful...

That aircraft paint stripper will lift the CARC. I attempted to remove spray can paint number stencils I painted on a door and the results were poor. It bubbled the CARC before I could wash it off.

He's talking about the windshield pivot hinges that allow the windshield to fold down on the hood.

Oh I see when you said you swapped the WTECIII you meant the keypad only. I thought you meant the ECU. That makes sense. Send your broken ECU to transmissioninstruments.com for free diagnosis. He can fix them most of the time.

Yes. Ambulance chassis etc.

Sorry I should have been clearer. Bubble test means put a wet rag soaked in dishwashing soap or Mr Bubble from your kids bathtub over the hole and see if bubbles are blown. There won't be bubbles in the oil.

After you replace the pinion seal, I would bubble test for air leaks on the rear axle by opening the oil fill port and checking for bubbles there with the CTIS on. The CTIS can't affect the front axle pinion seal as leaking CTIS air in the hub has no path to the center section through the open...

Or CTIS seals leaking at the hubs which can apply air pressure inside the axle housing.

Fast forward 70 years and the collectors of the future will be cussing all the holes you drilled like present collectors do with the mods that were done to the WWII Jeeps when they were surplused. Or not.

Nope. See if you can Google image M715s in service and find a Army registration number, change the last two digits and call it good. It will be our secret.

Anyone running one of these to cool/heat your shop? I bought 6 of them a while back and am about to install on a leased building, BUT I am seeing people report that they burn out after weeks of operation and Alaska tells you to f off if you call for proprietary parts. This is the 5 ton model.