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RE: hard If in need. . . http://odiron.com/store/index.php?cPath=4_48

RE: WTB m105 side racks/roof bowsat rally $22.25 each . . . http://odiron.com/store/index.php?cPath=4_48 If your going to tear into your front end that far ya might as well go for the whole shooting match and re-seal the lot with a master seal kit.

RE: part WOW... I think I'd go shoot the guy whom pulled off that fine feat of masonary...

RE: how tight rear hub Swap the tires...

RE: WTB m105 side racks/roof bowsat rally Guys if anyone wants / needs parts hauled up to avoid freight charges start speakin your mind... I will be bring up a few odds and ends along with some stuff to show around like the solid (no zipper) axle boots... If anyone wants / needs to see anything...

Bad input shaft and or pilot bearing... Look for that to get worse.

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Ok... Back To 11X20 Wheels... Im sayin roughly $220-230... Maybe a little less...

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Ok... Back To 11X20 Wheels... ... and a Avon pink cab!

Dale, Wheres your leak coming from?

Ya need to put away the catroons and go here... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&tid=1 Down load the CUCV TM's and read through them all... It will take you step by step by step through trouble shooting the charging system on the truck and or anything else you may have...

RE: Re: RE: Ok... Back To 11X20 Wheels... If you want them chromed I have them chromed! *shudder*

Your thinking is correct on how the system works... Sounds like your air pistion is leaky leaky... Its possiable your getting fluid forced up the line due to case pressure. I would check the TC vent for blockage. Aftrwards pull the line from the air piston and blow it out (turn the switch on)...

RE: Re: RE: Ok... Back To 11X20 Wheels... They were actually susposed to be smaller than they are... I gave the bone heads exact dementions and photos even... Ya see what I got in return lol... Good help is hard to find! See my above answer... (in reguards to bone heads).... Im gonna tig...

Take it to a starter shop and have it tested... Just casue it spins doesnt mean its a good starter.

Ditto... DO NOT USE SILICONE... use windshield sealant. Silicone should never be used agant glass and metal together as it draws mosture under it and causes rust.

RE: GEN 2 Light is on (but dim) AND VoltMeter doesn Ya need to get out your TM and meter for some troubleshooting... Napa alternators will not work, CUCV's have isolated grounds.. You can have this done at a local shop (usually)... If not I have them here...

Same issue, diffrent resluts... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=14374

Try paint stripper next time.... It really works well fir finding only numbers hidden under paint.

Yank said famous relay out and install a actual starter solenoid in its place, a small one is better something like Napa's 7-01829, 7-01860-1, 7-01819, etc, etc (all small engine PN's) pretty much any 12V 4 post will work for longer than the truck will ever be on the road. Also consider...

RE: Pull an oil sample off the engine and send it in for analyses... That will confirm or deny your FDC leak. If you need one I sell them here... http://odiron.com/store/index.php?cPath=16 As for the rear main... Like Kenny said engine crane, engine hoist... Whatever one calls them... A jack...